High Altitude Mountaineering: 23 days – Cordillera Real, Bolivia

04-26 August 2024

Instructors: Lars Bukkehave & Juliana Garcia “IFMGA” International Mountain Guide

Language : Danish, Norwegian, English and Spanish
 4.700 USD (first 1.500USD are paid as deposit when sign up)

High altitude mountaineering in Bolivia is off the beaten part. It is remote but still accessible peaks in the Andes. It is excellent climbing on scenic high altitude glaciated peaks. The itinerary has a progression in skills and technical and altitude.

A great introduction to technical high altitude mountaineering. Exploration of an area and country that is authentic and rich in cultural depth and conservation of an ancient way of life.

Be aware that it is a less touristed and less climbed country so it will have advantages and disadvantages, so be ready for an adventure

We aim to climb: 
Pequeno Alpamayo 5450m, Huayna Potosi 6088m & Illimani 6438m and some acclimatisation peaks along the way. 

We will acclimatisation slowly to make sure the group feel well and suited for the high altitude peaks in the end of the trip. We will use the days to build up climbing technics, glacier rescues, route finding on glacisers, rope work and ice climbing.
We will have maximum an increase of around 300 meters pr night. 

Eco Logde at Lake Tikikakka

Day 1 – 04 august: Depart from home country

Day 2 – 05 august: Transfer in to La Paz airport El Alto International Airport. Where you land in 3649 meters above sea level. We will take a city tour, get some local food and stay at the
Ritz Apart Hotel: Plaza Isabel La Católica N° 2478, La Paz, Bolivia.

Day 3 – 06 august: Today we head to Lake Tikikakka in bus with our local charter. On the way we will visit mysterious Tiwanaka Ruins. In Copabana we will sleep at the Eco Lodge where we will do an afternoon hike along Lake Tikikakka

Day 4 – 07 august: We take a small ferry and use the day on a hiking trip across the Isla Del Sol island with beautiful view of mountains that we later on the trip will climb. We will be around 4000m so its great acimatisation. We start out slow which will benefit in the end. No rush about packing we will stay another night at the Eco Lodge. 

Day 5: 08 august – We leave the lake to head in to the mountains. The bus will drop us at Tuni camp­site from where we start the trek to our tent Base Camp in Condoriri. The hiking in valley will give stunning views of the condoriri mountain range. We will camp in 4500 meters

Day 6: 09 August – We brush up on our glac­i­er skills

Day 7: 10 August – Climb an Grade AD 2 ridge line

Day 8: 11 August – Do some ice climbing on the glaciser

Day 9: 12 August – One rest day

Tent Base camp in Condoriri
Pequeno Alpamayo 5450m – West Ridge AD

Day 10: 13 august – With an early alpine start we head to Pequeno Alpamayo 5450m via west Ridge Alpinegrade AD max 55 degrees. This will test all the skills we have trained to this point. It will be a long day out.

It is a pyramid of snow, with the standard route being about 55 degrees, snow, nice in the morning, but sticky later in the day.

Day 11: 14 august – Pack up in the morn­ing and hike out to Tuni. We return to lower altitude for rest in the jungle in Zongo

Day 12: 15 august – We sleep in and enjoy a leisure­ly break­fast with fresh fruits from the jungle. The day is to recover in low altitude. Maybe a small walk to keep blod pumping and take a swim near a waterfall in the jungle. 

Alpine Glow over Huayna Potosi

Day 13: 16 august – Its about time to head back to the mountains. This time our sight are towards Huayna Potosi “Casa Blanca Refuge”.
We get transferred to “Zongo Pass” and hike to a cosy mountain hut that serves as Huayna Potosi basecamp, Casa Blanca Refuge.

Day 14: 17 august – South Peak of Pico Milluni grade 4 scramble

Day 15: August 18 – We depart ear­ly in order to reach the sum­mit of Huayna Potosi 6088m Normal Route PD or South Ridge AD+ and encounter a vari­ety of ter­rain on our way to the sum­mit. This will be a chal­leng­ing day of 10 – 14 hours round trip to the sum­mit and return to the pass. From the sum­mit we will be reward­ed with beau­ti­ful views of Lake Tit­i­ca­ca, the Ama­zon Basin, and the Cordillera Real. Descend and stay the night in the hut

Day 16: August 19 – Transfer to La Paz and enjoy a rest day

Huayna Potosi 6088m Normal Route AD- or South Ridge AD+
Illimani High Camp known as Condor’s Nest

Day 17: 20 August – We will depart for our final objec­tive, Neva­do Illi­mani. A scenic dri­ve through the coun­try­side of Bolivia ends at the small vil­lage of Hacien­da Una. From here we dri­ve through small farm­ing vil­lages and alpine mead­ows to base camp.

Day 18: 21 August – Extra day

Day 19: 22 August – Today we accom­plish a stren­u­ous climb up a rocky ridge to high camp, known as the Condor’s Nest. We estab­lish High camp and get some well-deserved rest to pre­pare us for the summit.

Day 20: 23 August – 
Sum­mit day entails an ear­ly depar­ture in order to climb Pico Sur, the high­est of Illimani’s three sum­mits. Ilimani 6438m Alpine AD-, max 50°
Inter­est­ing glac­i­er trav­el along var­ied ter­rain leads us to the sum­mit of this impres­sive peak. This is a long day of 12 – 15 hours roundtrip. After enjoy­ing the views from the sum­mit we descend to high camp, or if time per­mits to base camp.

Day 21: 24 August We sleep in and enjoy a leisure­ly break­fast before we break camp and hike out. In the after­noon we dri­ve to La Paz for our cel­e­bra­tion dinner.

Day 22: 25 August – Depart La Paz Airport and fly home

Day 23: 26 August – Arivel in your home country

Illimani 6438m
Lars Bukkehave & Juliana Garcia

Instructors: Lars Bukkehave & Juliana Garcia “IFMGA” International Mountain Guide

Signup & questions: LarsBukkehave@gmail.com

See you in the mountains

– 4 nights in a hotels double accommodation
– 2 nights in Eco Lodge in Copacabana double accommodation
– 2 nights in hotel in Zongo (jungle)
– Nights at the Huayna Potosí refuge
– All transport in Bolivia
– Mountain cook and kitchen assistant
– Entrance fees to the mountains
– Food in the mountains

Not Included:
– Tips for local assistant 
– Food in the city of La Paz & Copacabana
– Personal mountain equipment

NB. It’s not a skitrip, it’s an old picture from Volcano Antisana 5753m in Ecuador.